![]() ![]() There was also a lot of hand labor in pressing globs of putty into the frame. Hand-rolling, even extrusion from a caulking gun, were not satisfactory techniques. I also found the task of getting the putty into the strips that I could easily press into the frame was difficult. In your case, you probably can get at the door glass easily, but it's still a laborious task to clean the oily putty off the glass without making dents in the fresh putty. For me, the exterior of the windows were hard to reach after they were installed, which of course is when you first notice how messy the left-over streaks of putty are. The reason is that it takes a lot of work to clean the window later. It might be good to tape some paper or newspaper to the glass. When you subsequently stroke in the opposite direction, that will set the putty down into the window frame. The first stroke to apply the putty gets it into position, but depending on the consistency of the putty, may lift the putty off the muntin. The main thing that I learned technique-wise was to stroke the putty with the knife in two directions. ![]() It turned out that the smooth application by the window shop guy was a skill learned by doing many windows. You'll have to decide whether to use the stuff that comes in a container or the stuff from the caulking tube. It turned out to be a very difficult job for me. I went on to putty about a dozen windows, almost 100 individual panes. Regardless of his position, he was able to do the most beautiful work. ![]() He was obviously not the best paid employee and was given the task of puttying the windows. The putty external to the glass may crack, but the bead is less likely to crack with aging.Īlso, many years ago I visited a window shop when ordering windows and watched a guy applying putty. This time around, I made sure to both prime and paint the muntin before glazing, with the intermediate putty. The net result was some water damage to the frame. I made the mistake many years ago of not putting a bead of putty between the glass and the wood. Meets Federal Specification TT-P-781A, Type I.-TT-G-00410E.īoth compounds require painting after skinning, priming putty is not recommended.ĭue to a bucket shortage 4 Gallon buckets also available, please contact us for a shipping quote.It's important when glazing to prevent water from getting in and damaging the wood. This user friendly putty is available in convenient, ready to use one gallon cans. The only Glazing Compound that meets every requirement of the glazier, painter and homeowner. A modern glazing compound that remains elastic. Sarco Dual-Glaze compound for glazing wood and metal sash. Meets Federal Specification TT- P-871A Type I. Type “M” is for inside shop glazing only. Type “M” is a quick skinning product, usually forming a strong enough surface skin to be painted in two weeks or so depending on temperature. This is the best production putty available and is the same product we used for 25 years to glaze our own sash. It is the superior vegetable oil based (soybean and linseed oil) compound. Sarco Multi-Glaze type “M” – A proven Mill Glaze formula for wood sash. The terms “glazing putty” and “glazing compound” are now used interchangeably, yet Sarco products are true modern glazing compounds which demonstrate elasticity that the old calcium carbonate putties lacked. We are pleased to be the authorized distributor for two types of Sarco glazing compound. ![]()
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